Tabor (K) - The Adama II Series and More
12.08.2011
By: Dniel Rogov
Founded in 1999 by several grape-growing families in the village of Kfar Tabor in the Lower Galilee, the modern Tabor winery draws on white grapes largely from their own vineyards near Mount Tabor and on red grapes from the Upper Galilee. Initial production was of 20,000 bottles and current production is about 1 million bottles annually. With about 1,000 dunams (about 250 acres) of vineyards currently on line and new vineyards in the works, plans are to expand slowly until annual production will be between 3–6 million bottles annually. Among new grape varieties now being planted perhaps the most exciting is of Tannat, a grape so dark in color and so deeply concentrated that the Madiran region and the red wine that relies on this grape are often referred to as “the heart of darkness.”
With agronomist Michal Akerman now gaining full control of the winerys own and contract vineyards, European-trained winemaker Arieh Nesher is currently releasing wines in three series. The top-of-the-line label is Mes’cha, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz. Labels Adama and Adama II reflect the type of soils in the vineyards. In reading the Adama labels it may be useful to know that adama translates into soil; gir is chalky or limestone-rich soil; terra rossa is red earth; charsit is clay and bazelet refers to volcanic soil. There is also a more basic series released under the label Tabor.
Tabor, Mes'cha, 2006: A just- to be-released wine that I have tasted three times in the past but never written about because the wine seemed to be in a deep sleep and, if the truth be told, I had no idea whether it would ever wake up or if it would even be released. Good news…the bugle has sounded revile, the wine has come out of its sleep and is now showing beautifully. Developed partly in barriques and partly in 2,000 liter vats, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Shiraz. On the nose red fruits and a tantalizing hint of bitter citrus peel, those making way in the glass for aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants, raspberries and cherries, those on a background that hints nicely of leather and earthy minerals. Medium- to full-bodied (leaning to the full) with gently chewy tannins. Perhaps the best to date from Tabor. Drink now-2016, perhaps longer. NIS 140. Score 93. K
Tabor, Petite Syrah, Adama II, 2008: Dark garnet toward youthful royal purple, made from grapes harvested in the Eastern Galilee and developed for 12 months in 2nd and 3rd year oak. Full-bodied, with firmly gripping tannins that yield nicely in the glass to reveal generous blackberry, blueberry, and huckleberry fruits, those with overlays of peppery cedar wood. Mouthfilling, generous and well focused, promising well for a long future. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from mid-2012-2018. NIS 80. Score 91. K
Tabor, Merlot, Adama II, 2008: Dark cherry red toward garnet, made entirely from Merlot grapes harvested on Kerem Ben Zimra in the Upper Galilee on bazelet based soil, reflecting its 12 months in oak with full-body, soft tannins and light notes of smoky oak. On the nose and palate currants, red berries and notes of citrus peel all on a light note of white pepper. Round, long and generous. Drink now-2014. NIS 80. Score 90. K
Tabor, Syrah, Adama II, 2008: Dark ganet with a royal purple robe, made entirely from Syrah grapes harvested in the Galilee from vines cultivated in red earth soil, reflecting its 12 months in oak with full-body, gently gripping tannins and sweet and spicy wood, those parting to reveal aromas and flavors of purple plums, blackberries and blackcurrants, those supported nicely by notes of bitter-sweet chocolate and cigar tobacco. Long and generous, with hints of black olives and earthy minerals on the finish. Drink now-2013, perhaps longer. NIS 80. Score 90. K
Tabor, Sauvignon Blanc, Adama, Gir, 2010: With fine tangy acidity, showing fresh, ripe and round, with plenty of depth to aromas and flavors of citrus, yellow apples, figs and citrus fruits, all on a note that calls to mind a well trimmed lawn after a light summer rain. Light- to medium-bodied, finishes with flavors of spring flowers and pears. A very nice Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now-2013. NIS 65. Score 90. K
Tabor, Cabernet Sauvignon-Petite Sirah, Adama II, 2008: Think of this as a Bordeaux blend plus, that is to say 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% each of Cabernet Franc and Merlot plus 20% Petite Sirah. By whatever name, a fine effort, showing full-bodied, with notes of spicy cedar and generous, somewhat rustic tannins parting to reveal currants and juicy red and black berries. On the long finish an appealing hint of smokiness. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2012-2017. NIS 80. Score 90. K
Tabor, Chardonnay, 2010: Unoaked, showing light shining gold, with fresh citrus aromas opens in the glass to show citrus, green apple and tropical fruits on a crisply dry mineral background. Fresh and vibrant, with a note of white peaches on the finish. Drink now-2014. NIS 45. Score 89. K
Tabor, Merlot, Adama, Bazelet, 2008: Made from grapes harvested in the Upper Galilee, medium- to full-bodied, leaning to the full, with soft tannins and showing dark cherry red towards garnet. On the opening nose spicy and smoky oak. Opens in the glass to reveal black and red cherries, red berries, cassis and peppery notes, all with a hint of citrus peel. Drink now-2013. NIS 65. Score 89. K
Tabor, Syrah, Adama, Terra Rossa, 2008: Dark ruby toward garnet, medium- to full-bodied, with soft tannins and a tempting hint of sweet cedarwood opening to reveal generous blackberry and black cherry fruits, those supported nicely by notes of dark chocolate and an appealing bittersweet note that rises on the finish. Drink now–2012. NIS 65. Score 88. K
Tabor, 562 Rouge, 2010: Named (or numbered if you like) after the altitude at which the grapes were harvested. Made entirely from Barbera grapes this year, a deep pink sparkling wine made by the charmat method (secondary fermentation in stainless steel tanks), showing light- to medium-bodied, with an abundance of sharp bubbles and a long, long mousse, showing an appealing array of raspberry, strawberry and wild red berries that make you smile for pleasure. Not at all complex but fun with breakfast, brunch or at picnics. Drink now or in the next year or so. Score 85. K
Tabor, 562, Blanc, 2010: A blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% blanc de noirs made from Cabernet Sauvignon, made by the charmat method, that is to say with secondary fermentation in stainless-steel tanks, a nearly colorless wine with a mousse that lingers on and on and on, looking something like soap bubbles but fortunately not at all tasting like that. Lots of bubbles here, with generous lemon and lime fruits, reminds me of a sophisticated version of the soft drink, Sprite. Score 82. Drink now. K
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