Three New Releases from Recanati (K) 
 07.12.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

The first time I met Gil Shtazberg was at a dinner held in 1994 at the partly restored Crusader's castle at Kibbutz Yechiam in the north-western part of the Galilee. The castle was enchanting but I recall the meal as being mediocre and boring. Happily, talking with Shtazberg, who by chance had been seated next to me, compensated nicely for the evening leaving me with the impression that here was a young winemaker who knew what he was talking about and was in the process of developing his dreams for the future.

Shtazberg at that time had just returned to Israel from his studies at the University of California at Davis and had gone back to work for Carmel. After Carmel, Gil took over the then newly created Amphorae and within a very few years had turned it into one of the most exciting of the small wineries in the country. When Amphorae changed owners and philosophy, Gil moved into the slot as senior winemaker at Recanati. If the truth be told, I have never lost my enchantment with this still quite young-at-heart winemaker and his wines.

Now at Recanati for just under two years, three of Shatzberg's own wines are just making their way to market. By "his own", I mean of course that these are the first wines for which he was responsible from pre-harvest to harvest to the winemaking procedures and decisions and to the bottling. The wines are in the winery's basic Recanati series. Considering the charm of these releases, I am especially looking forward to the future releases of his first Reserve and Special Reserve wines.

As to Recanati, the winery was established in 2000, and is situated in a modern facility located in the Hefer Valley in the north part of the Sharon region. The winery relies on grapes from their own as well as contract vineyards, primarily in the Upper Galilee. From its founding until late 2007, the senior winemaker of the winery was Lewis Pasco, who has moved on and been replaced by the Shatzberg. The winery produces wines in several series: the top-of-the-line age-worthy Special Reserve wines, which are often blends of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; and two varietal series, Reserve and Recanati, which now include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Sirah-Zinfandel, Chardonnay and most recently Sauvignon Blanc. The winery also releases a blended red in their Special Edition series and has a popularly priced series named Yasmine. Production is currently about 750,000 bottles annually and the winery is moving toward 800–850,000.
I had tasted each of these wines earlier, either from barrels or as advance releases. Each comfortably lives up to its earlier promise. I cannot help but think that the price for each of NIS 59 represents fine value for money.

Best
Rogov

Recanati, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008: Developed in older barrels and showing a gentle spicy wood and vanilla influences along with soft, gently mouth-coating tannins. Full-bodied but not at all aggressive, opens to reveal red currant, berry and orange peel notes, those supported nicely by notes of freshly cut Mediterranean herbs and earthy minerals. Drink now–2012. NIS 59. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 3 Dec 2009)

Recanati, Merlot, 2008: Garnet in color, medium-bodied, with silky, near-sweet tannins. On the nose and palate generous red and black berries, cassis, cocoa and mocha. Showing soft and round with good grip and length. Drink now–2012. NIS 59. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 3 Dec 2009)

Recanati, Shiraz, 2008: Showing even better than at barrel tastings. Developed partly in stainless steel vats, partly in barriques, showing good color and fruit extraction. Medium-, perhaps medium- to full-bodied, opening with a floral nose and going on to show purple plum, blackberry and leathery notes, those on a background of violets and spring flowers. Appealing. Drink now-2012. NIS 59. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 3 Dec 2009)