Chateau Golan: New Releases Tasted
 07.12.2009 
By: Daniel Rogov

Yesterday (Sunday, 6 December), I attended a tasting of newly released wines of Chateau Golan.

A fully modern winery located on Moshav Eliad on the Golan Heights, the winery released their first wines from the 2000 vintage under the hand of Oregon and California-trained winemaker Uri Hetz. Vineyards owned by the winery, including several that are organic, currently yield Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Grenache, Sauvignon Blanc, Mourvedre, Rousanne, Grenache Blanc and Viognier grapes. Production is currently between 70,000–75,000 bottles and future production is estimated at somewhat over 100,000 bottles annually. The winery releases wines in one series, Royal Reserve, that including the proprietary blend known as Eliad.

I had tasted each of these wines earlier, either in barrels or as pre-release tastings and with the exception of normal development, my tasting notes hold quite firmly. Chateau Golan comfortably maintains its place as one of the few five star wineries in the country.

My thanks to winemaker Uri Hetz, to winery owner Shuki Shai and to the winery staff that was present for their courtesies during the tasting.

Best
Rogov

Chateau Golan, Rose, Royal Reserve, 2008: Pale toward blushing pink in color, made entirely from Cabernet Franc grapes, partly developed in stainless steel and for a short while in used barriques. Medium-bodied, with appealing red and black berries, strawberries and red currants, those on a spicy background. Plenty of good acidity here. A more than usually complex rosé. Drink now. NIS 99. Score 89. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)

Chateau Golan, Geshem Blanc, Royal Reserve, 2008: Light golden straw in color, a medium-bodied and nicely aromatic blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne (57%, 37% and 6% respectively). A distinctly Mediterranean blend (you can almost feel the sunshine here), opening with an appealing floral nose and then going on to show apple, nectarine and quince fruits, all supported by fine balancing acidity. A tantalizing hint of spiciness on the long finish. Drink now–2012. NIS 155. Score 91. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)

Chateau Golan, Sauvignon Blanc, Royal Reserve, 2008: Light and lively gold in color, with green and orange tints, developed partly in oak and partly in stainless steel, a wine that is simultaneously lively and refreshing as well as complex and thought provoking. Gently floral, with traditional Sauvignon Blanc aromas and flavors, those including freshly cut grass, gooseberries and tropical fruits, all on a background of well-balanced acidity. Long and generous. Drink now–2011, perhaps longer. Score 91. NIS 130. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)

Chateau Golan, Syrah, Royal Reserve, 2007: Youthful royal purple in color, a blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre, those oak-aged in French oak for12 months. Youthful royal purple in color, full-bodied, with its generous 14.6% alcohol level in fine balance with spicy wood, acidity and fruits. On first attack near-sweet plums and crushed berries, those yielding comfortably to blueberries and what seems at one moment notes of saddle leather, the next of espresso coffee. A wine that is simultaneously complex and elegant and, at the same time surprisingly easy to drink. Drink now-2014. Price not known. Score 91.

Chateau Golan, Merlot, Royal Reserve, 2007: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, a full-bodied blend of 86% Merlot, 9% Petite Verdot and 5% Syrah. Oak-aged for 14 months in French oak, deeply extracted, muscular and intense. A whopping 15% alcohol here but that in fine balance with generous soft tannins and notes of near-sweet cedar wood. On the nose and palace blackberry, raspberry and cassis fruits, those on a background of licorice and bittersweet chocolate. Tannins and a note of toasty oak rise on the long finish. A powerhouse, but one with grace. Drink now–2014. NIS 145. Score 90. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Royal Reserve, 2007: A medium- to full-bodied blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% each Cabernet Franc and Syrah, and a 1% smidgeon (I always wanted to use that word in a tasting note) of Petite Sirah. vinified separately for 12 months in French and American before blending. Dark garnet, with gently mouth-coating tannins and notes of spicy oak and cedar. Opens to show appealing aromas and flavors of blackberries, blackcurrants and violets, and, on the generous finish, a hint of bittersweet chocolate. Drink now–2014. NIS 137. Score 90. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)

Chateau Golan, Eliad, 2007: A blend of 89.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 3.5% Merlot. Almost inky dark in color, a distinctly Old World wine in its elegance the grapes vinified separately for 13 months in oak before being blended and aged for 3 months longer. On first attack blackberries and black cherries, those yielding comfortably to notes of toasty oak and bittersweet chocolate, and, on the long finish, as we have come to know with this wine, hints of olives and Mediterranean herbs. Plenty of alcohol here (14%) but not at all a “blockbuster” and given time this one will indeed show elegance. Best 2011–2016, perhaps longer. NIS 179. Score 90. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)

Chateau Golan, Geshem Rouge, Royal Reserve, 2007: At 15%, plenty of alcohol here, but that showing neither heat nor sweetness as it is in fine balance with spicy wood, near-sweet tannins and fruits. Full-bodied, rich and deep, showing almost incense-like anise notes and then opening to reveal berry, black cherry and currant fruits. A blend of 70% Grenache with 15% each of Mourvedre and Syrah, oak-aged for 13 months, with a tempting liquoreux finish. Drink now–2015. NIS 259. Score 91. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)

And, just for the fun of it, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon was tasted.

Chateau Golan, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: Living up to its earlier promise. Dark garnet, full-bodied with its once firm tannins now integrated nicely and continue to show excellent focus and concentration. On the nose and tannins still youthful aromas and flavors of currants, black cherries and anise, along with attractive earthy-herbal overtones and hints of green olives. Drink now–2011. NIS 360. Score 90. (Re-tasted 6 Dec 2009)