Tulip Winery - My Annual Visit With Tasting Notes
20.12.2009
By: Daniel Rogov
Yesterday morning (Tuesday, 19 December) found me comfortably ensconced on the train to Haifa, from there to make my way to my annual visit to the Tulip winery. Located on Kfar Tikva near the town of Kiryat Tivon, not far from Haifa, this winery is an effort of the Yitzhaki family. The winery currently draws on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes from the Alma vineyard and other locations in the Upper Galilee, as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot from the Karmei Yosef and Mata vineyards near Jerusalem. The winery has full control over its contract vineyards and currently in development are vineyards planted in red varieties near Mount Meron.
The winery is currently releasing about 100,000 bottles annually, those in four series: varietal Grand Reserve and Reserve; blended wines in the, Mostly series; and single-variety wines, in the Just series. Also released are top-of-the-line Black Tulip and White Tulip blends, The winery also occasionally releases Tulip, a white dessert wine, and a Port-style reinforced red wine. The winery continues to produce high quality wines many of which are excellent value for money. Most impressive for me was to confirm that the quality and interest level of the wines continues to rise from year to year. The winery will comfortably rise from three to four stars in the 2011 edition of my Israeli wine book. The wines are readily available within Israel. In the USA they may be ordered through Israel Wine Direct at http://www.israeliwinedirect.com/israeliwine/index.jsp
My thanks to all who received me at the winery and for their courtesies and good company during my visit.
Best
Rogov
Tulip, Black Tulip, 2007 (Barrel Tasting): Close to but not yet a final blend, showing youthful deep royal purple in color, with generous near sweet tannins and spicy oak, those parting to make way for blackberries and blueberries on a generously spicy background and then, from mid-palate on clear notes of currants, black pepper and grilled herbs. Look as well for a light meaty note here. Drink from release-2014. Tentative Score 88-90. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Black Tulip, 2006 (Advance Tasting): A distinctly Bordeaux blend, this year of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (60% 20%, 13% and 7% respectively). Developed in barriques for an extended period of 30 months, and at this stage of its development showing full-bodied, the tannins still gripping and the wood rather pronounced but with structure and balance that bode well for the future. On first attack aromas and flavors of cigar box, blueberries and black pepper, those yielding to clear, clean notes of currants and wild berries. Long, mouth-filling and with the kind of complexity that gives comfortable pause for reflection. Approachable and enjoyable now but best starting in 2011 and then until 2014, perhaps longer. NIS 175. Score 91. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Not yet a final blend but already showing both dark and concentrated with a special note added by a graphite background that supports generous currant and cherry fruits. Full-bodied, perhaps even a bit chunky, but needing only time for the elements to come together as a truly Mediterranean wine with hints of olives, roasted herbs and tobacco always in the background. Drink from release-2015. Tentative Score 89-91. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve, 2007: Full-bodied, with still gripping tannins and reflecting spicy wood from its 18 months in barriques, those in fine balance with fruits and acidity. Dark garnet, opening with red fruits (red currants and raspberries), going in the glass to both blackcurrants and blackberries, all on a background of Mediterranean herbs and, along with tannins rising on the finish a note of earthy minerals. Drinking very nicely now but best 2011-2014. NIS 95. Score 91. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip Cabernet Sauvignon, Just, 2008: Made entirely from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, dark garnet with violet and orange reflections, showing surprisingly generous wood after only 8 months in oak but that I good balance with tannins and fruits. On the nose and palate traditional Cabernet blackcurrant, black berry and spices, those with an appealing earthy-herbal overlay that lingers nicely on the palate. NIS 67. Score 88. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Merlot, Just, 2008: Reflecting its 8 months in French oak with notes of near-sweet cedar wood and soft tannins. Dark garnet towards royal purple, medium- to full-bodied, with generous wild berry and currant fruits. Not long but soft, round and generous. Drink now or in the next year or two. NIS 67. Score 87. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Cabernet Franc, Mostly, 2007: Cabernet Franc blended with 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark, almost impenetrable Garnet, developed in French oak barriques for 14 months, showing generous spicy wood and firm tannins, those yielding slowly in the glass to a nose rich in sweet herbs and, on the palate blackberries, blueberries and green peppers on a light earthy-mineral background. Give this one some time for its elements to come together. Best from mid-2010-2012. NIS 79. Score 88. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Syrah, Reserve, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Close to but not yet a final blend, showing dark ruby towards garnet, full-bodied and round with generous wood and tannins in good balance with fruits and acidity. Firm, rich and spicy with generous blueberry, wild berry, mineral, spice and cedar notes all with chewy tannins and on the long finish rising notes of sage. Drink from release-2015. Tentative Score 90-92. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Syrah, Reserve, 2007: Blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and oak-aged for 16 months, dark and full-bodied, with spicy wood and softly gripping tannins in fine balance and integrating nicely with rich blackberry, wild berry and black cherry fruits. New World Syrah that almost gives you the feeling that you could eat it with a spoon rather than from a wine glass. Sumptuous, deep and long. Drink now-2013. NIS 98. Score 91. (Tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, Shiraz, Mostly, 2007: Deep garnet, reflecting its 14 months in primarily new oak, a blend, as the name of the series implies, mostly of Shiraz, that flushed out by Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (54%, 30%, 11% and 5% respectively). Full-bodied, with still firm tannins and a generous spicy oak influence in fine balance with fruits and acidity but needing a bit of time for the elements to integrate. On the nose and palate blackberries, black currants and notes of mint and, on the generous finish a note of leather. Enjoyable now but best 2011-2014, perhaps longer. NIS 79. Score 90. (Re-tasted 29 Dec 2009)
Tulip, White Tulip, 2008: A somewhat odd but quite successful unoaked blend of 60% Gewurztraminer and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Golden straw towards lemon-lime in color, medium-bodied and deeply aromatic, reflecting an array of aromas and flavors, those including freshly mown gras, litchis, grapefruit and peppermint. Plenty of fresh acidity to keep the wine refreshing. Drink now. NIS 67. Score 87. (Re-tasted 29 Dec 2009)
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