Yatir: My Annual Visit - With Tasting Notes (K) 
11.01.2010 
 By: Daniel Rogov

I am probably one of the few people in Israel who has no complaints whatever with the Israeli railroads. Perhaps its just my dumb luck but I always seem to get where I want to go, when I want to get there and in comfort. Today (Weds, 6 January), for example, I took an early morning train from Tel Aviv to Beer Sheva, there to be met by Ya'akov Ben Dor first for a good cup of coffee and a croissant and then to drive to the Yatir winery where I was met by winemaker Eran Goldwasser for my annual visit and tasting.

I will comfortably admit that this is one of the visits I look forward to with excitement and that because from the moment the winery released its first wines from the 2001 vintage and until now Yatir has proven itself to be one of the very best wineries in the country, consistently earning its five stars in my guides and producing wines of world-class quality and interest. More than that, if the truth be told Eran Goldwasser is a thoroughly intelligent human being and discussing wine and the wine industry with him is always a positive experience. And yes, going to a local beer joint with him after the tasting to have burgers and beers is an added pleasure.

True – because of what may be a positive bias on my part with regard to the quality of the wines, they do add some work to my schedule for on return this afternoon (and after what I consider a well-earned brief nap), I had my assistant open three bottles of the Yatir wines from my own cellar, those to be paired blind with eight other similar wines from similar vintage years. No problems there…my tasting notes were consistent between my open winery tastings and my later blind tastings at home.

My tastings today were of the 2009 and 2008 whites from the winery as well as vertical tastings of their Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz releases. Also a surprise, but let's hold that for the end of this little review.

My thanks to both Ya'akov and Eran for a fine tasting and their courtesies during my visit.

Best
Rogov

Set in a state-of-the-art winery near the archaeological digs of Tel Arad at the foot of the Judean Hills, this boutique winery draws its name from the Yatir Forest. Originally a joint venture of Carmel and the vintners of the Yatir region, the winery is now owned solely by Carmel but maintains complete autonomy under the supervision of Australian-trained winemaker Eran Goldwasser. The winery, which releases wines under the Yatir Forest and Yatir labels, cultivates their own vineyards, those with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier grapes. Also currently under cultivation are Tempranillo, Malbec and Petit Verdot, those at this stage destined primarily as blending agents. The first wines were from the 2001 vintage. Current production is about 150,000 bottles annually.

The White Wines

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009 (Advance Tasting): With half of the wine developed in used barriques for three months and the remainder in stainless steel, a wine that is simultaneously crisply refreshing and complex, with just the barest hint of the wood to add to its charm. Light golden in color, with fine aromatics and delicious balancing acidity to highlight grapefruit, kiwi, green apple and melon notes all on a background of sea shells and flint. Drink from release-2012. Score 91. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Sauvignon Blanc, 2008: Developing beautifully. Light golden straw with a green tint, developed primarily in stainless steel partly in older barriques for 3-4 months. As at a former tasting, fresh and crisp with citrus, kiwi and gooseberry fruits, those with a tantalizing hint of almonds that have been soaked in seawater. Delicious and attention catching. Drink now-2011. Score 90. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Viognier, 2009 (Advance Tasting): Light gold with orange and green reflections, medium-bodied but with remarkable mouth-filling abilities. A luxurious, rich and ripe wine with notes of guava, butter, pear and peach fruits all with a tempting floral overtone and a tantalizing hint of unripe almonds on the long finish. Wisely unoaked to highlight the juicy fruits and to keep them in fine balance. Drink from release-2012. Score 92. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Viognier, 2008: Delicious at barrel, advance and release tastings and equally delicious today. An unoaked, juicy wine, its once youthful pear and peach flavors and aromas still showing nicely but the greengage plums now replaced by notes of tropical fruits. In the background continues to show fine balancing acidity that highlights notes of kimmel seeds and peach pits. Long, round and with a near-creamy finish. Drink now-2011, perhaps a bit longer. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Cabernet Sauvignon - A Vertical 2005-2009

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): A tentative blend at this time, 1/3 developing in new oak. Medium- to full-bodied, reflecting a somewhat problematic harvest with lower concentration than is usually found in the Yatir reds. Forward currant and berry fruits, those on a background of vanilla and fresh Mediterranean herbs, the elements waiting to cometogether. Best from 2012. Tentative Score 87-89. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, a portion already out of the oak, a portion still in barriques, showing every bit as promising as at a first barrel tasting about a year ago. Opens with rich, near-sweet raspberries and red plums, unfolds to show blackberries and spices. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon at this stage, that probably to be flushed out with Petit Verdot or Shiraz but already showing fine concentration and depth. Long, round and generous. Best from 2012 and with enormous promise for muscular elegance. Tentative Score 92-94. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Tasted a year ago and absolutely delicious. Now in a deep sleep (call that a dumb phase if you like) and starting to open only when poured back and forth from glass to glass about a dozen times. I have no reason to regret what I said at my earlier tasting: Impenetrably dark garnet in color, full-bodied, with firm tannins and gentle wood influence integrating nicely. On first attack black fruits and spices, those parting to show notes of fresh herbs, black olives and bittersweet chocolate. Best 2011–2014, perhaps longer. To be re-tasted in 9 months. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006: Showing every bit as well as in the past. Despite a difficult harvest year, a rich, round and deeply extracted wine. Blended with 15% Petit Verdot, oak-aged for 12 months, on opening attack traditional blackberry, blackcurrant and black cherry fruits, those with notes of mocha, vanilla and cedar wood that play nicely on the palate and, on the long finish a tantalizing note of greenness that creeps quietly in. Drink now-2015. Score 92. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005: Blended with 15% of Shiraz, dark garnet with purple and orange reflections, showing fine balance between gentle spicy wood and mouth-coating tannins that are now well integrated. On first attack blackberries and currants, those yielding to raspberries, spices and light overlays of earthiness and leather, all with a hint of what at one moment feels like lead pencil and the next like cigar box. Long, generous and elegant. Thoroughly enjoyable now but do not hesitate to cellar this one until 2015. Score 93. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 6 Jan 2010)

Shiraz - A Vertical 2005-2009

Yatir, Shiraz, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, youthful royal purple in color, full-bodied, with tannins that grip nicely and hints of spicy cedar wood still waiting to integrate. Opens to reveal a meaty note that highlights red currants, figs and blackberry fruits, those complemented by notes of bittersweet chocolate and licorice. Destined to be long and velvety and, as the wine develops look for toasty overlays that run through to a generous finish. Best 2012-2017. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Shiraz, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Developing partly in barriques, partly in 3,600 liter vats, deep garnet towards inky black, opens with notes of red fruits and licorice, going on to reveal blackberries, spiced beef and polished saddle leather. Destined to be full bodied firm and muscular but through that, a clear sense of elegance. Tentative Score 91-93. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Shiraz, 2007 (Advance Tasting): Showing even more intense than at an earlier tasting. Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, with gripping tannins and generous but not-at-all imposing spicy wood integrating nicely now. On first attack almost peppery plums and blackberries, those followed by red fruits, dark chocolate and a note of sweet chewing tobacco. Give this one the time needs. Approachable on release but best 2012-2017. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Shiraz, 2006: My earlier tasting note holds firmly. Blended with 15% Malbec, aged in barriques for 12 months, showing full-bodied and concentrated with still firm tannins that need time to settle in. Showing fine balance and structure, the tannins integrating nicely now with a gentle spicy wood influence and opening in the glass to show blackberry, black cherry and prune notes, those on a background that hints of grilled beef and dark chocolate. Drink now–2017. Score 93. K (Re-tasted twice with consistent notes 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Shiraz, 2005: Dark, almost impenetrable garnet in color, intentionally aged in 2nd and 3rd year barriques in order to highlight the typical characteristics of the variety but still showing generous wood, the wine opens with meaty and herbal aromas, those yielding nicely to cherry, red currant and berry fruits and finally, creeping in comfortably, an agreeable hint of saddle leather. Opens beautifully in the glass. Long, generous and elegance. Drink now–2014. Score 93. K (Re-tasted 6 Jan 2010)

And then a surprise – on to barrel tastings as I have done every year for the last few years of Petit Verdot. Petit Verdot is only rarely released as a varietal, interestingly some of the very best examples coming not from France but from Spain and Sicily. I cannot say (nor do I think the winery has yet decided) whether to release these as varietal wines or to continue using them, at least for these vintage years, as part of their blending agents. If I had my druthers, these would most certainly be bottled as varietals. Certainly a variety not to everyone's taste but one that most assuredly deserves trying and can, at its best express a unique kind of savage elegance.

Yatir, Petit Verdot, 2009 (Barrel Tasting): Super-dark garnet, opens with ripe red fruit aromas, goes on to show abundant tannins and acidity, those in fine balance in a well structured wine. On opening attack cassis, raspberries, pomegranate and cola aromas and flavors, those matched by hints of lime, ginger and sweet Mediterranean herbs and underlying all, a tantalizing but not at all offensive hint of a clean barnyard. To be or not to be a varietal release remains to be determined. Best from 2013. Tentative Score 89-91. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2010)

Yatir, Petite Verdot, 2008 (Barrel Tasting): Dark, almost impenetrable garnet, full-bodied, with still gripping tannins waiting to settle down but already showing fine balance and structure. Opens with aromas and flavors of black fruits, those yielding to notes of bitter sweet chocolate and roasted herbs. On the long, long finish notes of what at one moment seem like black olives and another like eucalyptus. Perhaps or perhaps not to be released as a varietal wine. Fascinating and for my two cents, delicious. Tentative Score 90-92. K (Tasted 6 Jan 2010)