Binyamina - Top-of-the-Line New Releases Tasted (K) 
 16.12.2009 
 By: Daniel Rogov

This afternoon (Tuesday, 15 Dec 2009), I attended the unveiling of several new wines in Binyamina Winery's Avnei HaChosen series. For those not familiar with the Hebrew language or Biblical history, avnei ha choshen refers to the precious stones that adorned the vest of the high priest in the days of the first and second Temples. Going a step further on the translation, the different stones in the series: Sapir = Sapphire; Odem = Ruby; Yashfeh = Jasper; Tarshish = Aquamarine; Shoham = Onyx; Leshem = Opal; and Ya'alom= Diamond.

By any name, the wines in this top of the line series of Binyamina (known on the English language labels as The Chosen and not HaChoshen, the first pronounced with a soft ch, the second as hard) have ranged from the very good to the excellent since their first release from the 2003 vintage. Today's tasting reflects continuing positive developments at the winery and the increasing control that winemakers Sasson Ben-Aharon and Assaf Paz are gaining with both new vineyards and increasingly state-of-the-art equipment at their disposal. A good deal of credit is also due CEO Ilan Hasson, under whose leadership the winery has grown to be the 4th largest winery in the country (approximately 2.8 million bottles annually) and to one that now comfortably earns its four stars in my guide to Israeli wines – that representing a winery consistently producing high quality wines.

I had sampled all but one of these wines twice earlier, first as barrel tastings and then, almost a year ago, as advance tastings. Today, as is my wont, I arrived at the unveiling event somewhat early so that I could "sneak" in first tastings before food was set out on the tables. My tasting notes follow.

My thanks to the Binyamina team for their courtesies during the tasting.

Best
Rogov

Binyamina, Chardonnay-Sauvignon Blanc-Viognier, Avnei Hachoshen, Yashfeh, 2007: A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier (40%, 35% and 25% respectively), gently oak-aged, showing crisply dry with fine balancing acidity and a near-creamy texture. On the nose and palate peach, melon, citrus and light spicy notes leading to a long, refreshing and tantalizing note of sweetness on the finish. Drink now–2011. Score 89. K (Re-tasted 15 Dec 2009)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz-Merlot, Avnei Hachoshen, Sapir, 2006: A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Shiraz and 25% Merlot. Medium- to full-bodied with fine concentration, reflecting its 14 months in new French oak barriques with notes of spicy cedar wood and vanilla. On first attack blueberries and chocolate, those leading to blackcurrants, black cherries and a note of cigar tobacco. Complex and long. Drink now-2013. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 15 Dec 2009)

Binyamina, Syrah, Avnei Hachoshen, Odem, 2006: Blended with 2–3% of Viognier, dark, dense and concentrated, with fine balance and structure. Reflecting 18 months in new French oak firm tannins are comfortably integrating with spicy wood to show black and red berries, cherries and licorice flavors, all lingering on a long fruity finish. Give this one another year and it will show an appealing saddle-leather overtone. Drink now–2013. Score 90. K (Re-tasted 15 Dec 2009)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon, Avnei Hachoshen, Tarshish, 2006:Almost impenetrably dark garnet in color, full-bodied and concentrated, with spicy wood and firm tannins in fine balance, showing rich and well structured. If ever there has been a wine that was “black fruits all the way,” this is that wine—opening to show blackcurrant, blackberry, black cherry and deep earthy overtones, those matched nicely by notes of black pepper and star anise. From mid-palate on an appealing hint of what seems to be mint at one moment, eucalyptus at another. Long, generous and mouth-filling. Drink now–2014. Score 91. K (Re-tasted 15 Dec 2009)

Binyamina, Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah-Petit Verdot, Avnei Hachoshen, Ya'alom, 2006 (Advance Tasting): Almost impenetrably dark ruby-garnet in color, a Bordeaux blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon from two vineyards, 30% Syrah and 20% Petity Verdot. Developed in new French barriques for 20 months, at this stage still showing gripping tannins and generous sweet-and-spicy cedar wood notes, those in fine balance and showing the kind of structure that bodes well for future integration and development. When poured directly from the bottle shows meaty and herbal overtones, those parting to reveal a generous array of red and black currants, red plums on a peppery background. Decanted for several hours the wine softens nicely and also reveals an earthy-mineral background. Long and generous. Approachable on release but best from 2011-2015, perhaps longer. Score 92. (Tasted twice with consistent notes 15 Dec 2009)